La Soufrandière Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Quarts 2018
Biodynamic. This steep vineyard is the cradle of the Soufrandière estate and also one of Mâcon’s most significant sites. Ploughed mostly by horse and farmed biodynamically since 2001, it certainly produces the Bret Brothers’ most profound wines. Underlining Neal Martin’s quote at the top of this offer, Jasper Morris MW (Inside Burgundy) says of this vineyard: “If a Premier Cru programme is established in the region, Les Quarts must surely be a prime candidate for its status.”
Here, the Bajocian-era limestone soils are high in both calcium carbonate and quartz, rich in iron (giving the rock an ochre tint) and there is also some granitic influence. Most of the vineyard sits on soil only 20 to 30cm in depth before the roots plunge directly into the mother rock, and in some sections, the topsoil can be scraped aside by hand to reveal the bare limestone. Such a situation, when matched with the appropriate viticulture, results in wines with the mineral clout to cut through even the ripest, juiciest fruit.
What we love about this wine is that it is proudly Mâconnais—with layers of textured, voluminous fruit—and yet it is also incredibly precise, with the poise, length and mineral freshness similar to a fine Côte de Beaune. It helps that the massale selection vines are aged between 45 to 80 years (with younger vine material at the site declassified into the straight Pouilly-Vinzelles). This is a naturally made haut couture Mâcon, wonderfully refined and tailored and suffused with a slow burn of energy. It offers the drinker a white Burgundy that is easily as impressive as anything else we ship at this price, and that includes anything from the Côte d’Or.
“Clear fine mid lemon with the usual faint green reflections. The nose shows immediate power, but has not yet settled down. Let us talk instead about the mouth which is wonderful with an immense volume of fruit and real tension. And a gorgeous sweeping fruit that goes right through to a very long finish. It is suave, it is ripe and it is certainly concentrated.”91-93 PointsInside Burgundy