La Soufrandière St-Véran Climat La Bonnode 2018
Biodynamic. This excellent Prissé climat is one of the new vineyards the Bret brothers recently purchased in partnership with Dominique Lafon. The 40-year-old vines here face due east in a sheltered spot just below a small forest at the foot of the Roche de Vergisson. The vineyard was recently certified biodynamic and had been organically farmed by Pierre and Nathalie Desroches since 2010. It’s not hard to see why the brothers are so effusive when talking about this patch of dirt.
The Bret’s two hectares are made up of long rows on a slope, so the grapes ripen in stages and must be picked in successive tries—the 2018 was picked over three days at the end of August. It’s fermented and aged for the first year in barrel, then transferred to tank before the next harvest. From deeper soils, this wine has a little more volume than the Pouilly-Vinzelles wines, yet the cut and mouth-watering precision are spot-on. There’s a great honed quality this year, and a palate with an aromatic ribbon of fleshy, mouth-filling fruit without excess weight. The zesty, succulent acids and sappy bitterness keeps everything toned and in great shape.
“Fresh, lively and intense with lovely lemony fruit and crystalline purity. There’s a lovely layered, mineral texture here with fine spices. This is really serious.”95 PointsWine Anorak