Grand Cru Romanée-Saint-Vivant 2017
In 1991, l’Arlot were able to purchase a few rows of Romanée-Saint-Vivant in the Clos des Quatre Journaux terroir—the ‘island’ of RSV below La Romanée-Conti, where Arnoux-Lachaux is also based. It’s a jewel of a plot, with 24 rows over a tiny o.25 hectares parcel that was planted in 1973. On average it produces only three barrels of wine, and the average Bibendum allocation is 12-18 bottles!
This was vinified with 100% whole bunches in a new 15-hectolitre wooden fermenter. The élevage took place in mostly one, two and three-year-old barrels with only a little new oak in the mix. Again, this might be the best example of this wine we have shipped—it blew our mind when we tasted it at the cellars. It’s a super-fine, perfumed, and classy Grand Cru of tremendous, purity, intensity and finesse. There’s no such thing as well priced, top Grand Cru any more but all you can ask is that they deliver in the glass. This one does.
“The 2017 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru is matured in a judicious 20% new oak, since it was fermented in a new wood tank. It has a rather opaque bouquet, much more backward than the Les Suchots, featuring dark berry fruit mixed with bergamot and a touch of bay leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy entry and more lively than the aromatics at the moment, the 40% whole bunches lending tension and sous-bois notes toward a finish that fans out with confidence. It will require three or four years in bottle but will be worth the wait. Four barrels produced.”94-96 PointsVinous
“Gorgeous fresh mid purple. The nose is very reticent. Thereafter a superbly svelte mouthful of fine racy red fruit with good acidity behind, just ripe enough and with definite class. It is really very backward though at the moment, but the energy builds at the back and the fine-boned tannins provide a valuable structure. There will be more intense RSVs but this is very stylish. Géraldine considers the 2017 less austere than usual.”93-97 PointsInside Burgundy