Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Blanc Les Moulins 2018
100% Chenin Blanc. We finally have an allocation of this superb cuvée. Les Moulinswas created in 2014 as a destination for the Domaine’s non-certified fruit, from vines undergoing organic conversion. The current blend is drawn from roughly two hectares spread across the communes of Montreuil-Bellay, Brézé, and Bizay (home to the Clos de Guichaux), on the classic clay and limestone of the area. Vine age varies from 1935 in Brézéto younger vine fruit in Bizay(Guiberteau puts the average age at 30 years).
As for all Guiberteau’s whites, the fruit is whole-cluster pressed and wild-fermented on heavy lees. This cuvée was fermented and aged in stainless steel before finishing with six months in (old) 225 litre oak. This release is radically different from the villages bottling—it’s much more linear, racy and mineral, much more Brézé. In short, you can expect a stunning, intensely chalky, pithy grapefruit bolt of lightning, absolutely packed with all kinds of citrus (preserved lemon and yellow grapefruit in particular) and a long, rocky close. Run, don’t walk.